Buenos Aires, Argentina
Years Surfing: 1.5 years (consistently 10 months). Although I’ve discovered surfing relatively recently and I’m still a beginner, it’s a sport that has moved me like no other. I often find myself in the water with all my guy friends, and it can be really intimidating sometimes, so I’m always trying to get girls to join in too.
Fave Board: I currently own a 7ft softech, but I love surfing with 7’6 – 8ft minimals
What/who got you started surfing? I had my first surf lesson in Bundoran, Ireland (of all places to start!). I was living in Dublin at the time, and a girl friend and I just took off on a surf weekend in the Irish west coast. We didn’t expect anything of it, but when we both came out of the water we couldn’t stop smiling despite the freezing cold wind. What was this new thing we just discovered – and why hadn’t we done it before? Fast forward a year later, I now live in Sydney, Australia and go out for a surf every chance I get!
What is your philosophy on surfing? I love change (I travelled all over and lived in 6 countries!), and I tend to get bored easily. But surfing is a constant mental and physical challenge – from understanding the complexity of the surf report, to paddling out and seeing you read it wrong anyway, there’s never a dull moment. I love sitting on my board on a sunny day, floating in crystal clear water and looking at the waves to try to see when and where they’re breaking. I also love people-watching in the ocean – that one older lady who’s been doing this for ages surely knows where to paddle to to catch the wave. Every day out there is different – surfing stole my heart and now I’m hopelessly hooked.
Most memorable surf moment? I was in Bali, Indonesia. A couple of friends and I decided to go for an afternoon sunset surf. We were running late, but we wanted to make it in the water before the sun went down. We grabbed our boards and paddled out – not really expecting to catch many waves, just excited to be in the water. Just as the sun was about to disappear into the horizon, the ocean became completely calm, no waves to surf. I looked around, surrounded by a handful of surfers on their boards, just floating in the water. Each one, I’m sure, from a different part of the world and a different story to tell. Everyone was facing the horizon, not speaking, not moving. And it that moment I felt a collective appreciation for what lay before us – the unspeakable beauty of the golden sky and vast ocean. No way to grab your phone and share it with the world – that moment existed just for us. A few minutes later, a massive wave came and washed us all away! (The sunset picture is from this moment!)