Photo Credit: Alexandra Uzik

Your Stories

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Letícia Parada Moreira

“There was a moment, right at the beginning, that I was bothered by the looks the guys gave me. It was a look like “hey, what are you doing here?” “Bet you can’t be alone here in the outside” “Don’t disturb our session”. And I liked when my friend went with me. But then college was over and we had little time together and I started to go alone to the sea. I thought to myself “Hey, your life at sea can’t stop for that. You just need a 10-minute walk to leave home and get to the beach”. And since then it has become a habit in my life. Currently there are several guys who respect me at sea. I kind of am local here because I’m every single day in my home spot. Flat days or not. I’m there.

Leslie Palotas

Women are gaining strength, community, and self-respect for what their bodies and minds are capable of, not solely by how they appear to others. Women are increasingly defining their success by what they can do and achieve, making what others think about them less influential. Genuinely empowered women don’t improve themselves by belittling other women. Instead of getting caught up in toxic cycles of judging and cutting each other down, women empowered by surfing can choose to help others unlock their own personal sources of strength to persevere together against life’s external challenges.

Giselle Carrillo

“The first time I stepped into the ocean with a surfboard, I knew how to float- but hardly knew how to swim. I did not catch a single wave that day. The sensation of being in the ocean, balancing on a board, and attempting to pop up was all so physically foreign to me. It was like a fish out of water- or rather, a human in water. It’s an element we don’t naturally belong in. But the second we left that lesson, I knew I had to keep trying. We drove to the store and bought two Wavestorms and ordered a couple of wetsuits online. Our tiny Venice apartment became a surf hut overnight.”

Dr. Dani Burt

“After my motorcycle crash I was able to get back to skateboarding and learned how to snowboard. The one thing I was missing was the ocean. The ocean has always been home for me. The water has always been able to wash away all the negative thoughts and pressure that was going on in my life at that time. It gave me a chance to clear my head and feel free. I needed that more than ever after I lost my leg. But at the time, there was no prosthetic leg to surf with so I had to create one with my prosthetist, Michael Stull. It took some trial and error but we eventually dialed it in. The rest is history.”

Lucia Vasani

“I had my first surf lesson in Bundoran, Ireland (of all places to start!). I was living in Dublin at the time, and a girl friend and I just took off on a surf weekend in the Irish west coast. We didn’t expect anything of it, but when we both came out of the water we couldn’t stop smiling despite the freezing cold wind. What was this new thing we just discovered – and why hadn’t we done it before? Fast forward a year later, I now live in Sydney, Australia and go out for a surf every chance I get!”

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