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theoceanisfemale

“Last year I had a really stressful period at wo

“Last year I had a really stressful period at work, and I felt like I needed to get my head on straight again after weeks of grinding. So I took a day off during the week, and woke up early in the morning to hit my favorite surf spot in Malibu. The morning was perfect - sunny and warm, peaceful and quiet. Paddling out there were only a couple other people out, and the waves were just right; not too big or not too small. I sat in the water on my board for a long time just listening to the ocean and the sound of the waves, soaking in the sunshine and quietness. There really was nothing that I would have changed from that moment - it was absolutely perfect, and I ended up spending hours catching waves and enjoying the privacy I had with the ocean that day.” - Paulina Tornqvist @misspauliina 📸 @pinjamari #theoceanisfemale

“My grandpa was the one behind it all who got me

“My grandpa was the one behind it all who got me into surfing. He already started putting me on his board when I was only a few months old. I got my first board when I was around 5 and from then on I fell in love with the sport. I’m 14 years old right now and so thankful for what I was born into. As I grow up surfing will always have a special place in my heart. Surfing taught me many things. Patience, kindness, and most of all never taking it for granted. Be bold, be strong, and take risks because why not.” - Melia @meliasurfergirl 📸 @eriocean #theoceanisfemale

“Being a female surfer and snowboarder inspired

“Being a female surfer and snowboarder inspired me to shoot a documentary about women in surfing as an example of women in extreme sports. The focus on the nexus of surfing, lifestyle and creativity and what it means to be a female surfer was already part of my first film. It talks about the increasing commercialization of surfing and sexism in surf culture. My current film project is a documentary about women in surfing, where I invite women from all backgrounds to share their experiences and to discuss the power of sports impacting lives. Stay up to date with this project in the making of @femme_ocean “ - Annika Syniva @annikasyniva @soulsnapss @be.nah surfers: @palomamonnappa
@mikatennekoon @sambolfoundation @emmanuellejoly #theoceanisfemale

“4 years ago I had an accident and since the epi

“4 years ago I had an accident and since the episode I’ve been challenging myself to overcome the trauma of surfing. The board's fin cut my leg. It left me a scarred, but that’s ok because it became part of ‘marks of life.’ During these years I worked hard to face my fears and regain my self-confidence.
And that beautiful photo is the evidence of pure resilience.
So, the sea and mainly surfing for me means constantly challenge the unknown, strengthening more and more your self confidence connecting with your essence everyday.” - Isabela Santacreu @isabelasantacreu #theoceanisfemale.

“Surfeo por que me gusta sentir las olas me gust

“Surfeo por que me gusta sentir las olas me gusta la naturaleza y me encanta estar con mis amigas agarrando olas de amor. Mi mensaje seria que practicar surf es lo mejor experiencia en mi vida y que ellas pueden lograr practicar surf con toda la comunidad de Huachaco.” - Perla Isabel Silva Gutierrez @perlasilva2005 📸 @dazigsho.photography @groundswellcommunityproject

Pt. 2 “1. Draw Your Own Line. 2. Don’t compare

Pt. 2 “1. Draw Your Own Line.
2. Don’t compare yourself to anybody else.
3. Don’t let poor surf conditions steal your joy.

Nobody in the water knows your history, your injuries, your energy level, your stresses or your emotional state so don’t feel embarrassed if you are falling or missing waves. Similarly, don’t judge others when they are.

I am very aware of the dichotomy that exists in surfing. The ocean is inherently less than hospitable to humans and, as surfers, we engage in a sport where it is most inhospitable – where the ocean meets the land. That environment demands maximum effort, full attention and laser concentration. Contrast those demands with the fact that good surfing is, at its core, effortless; carefree and requires a full, calm surrender. The days that I surf at my best, I don’t “oversurf” the waves and I let it come to me. It’s a lot harder than one would think!” - Samantha Keown @surfingirish 📸 @lglasserphotography #theoceanisfemale

Pt. 1 “I have always loved being in the water. W

Pt. 1 “I have always loved being in the water. When I moved to America, I would cycle along the ocean on my way to a waitressing job and I would see the surfers gliding in the glistening sunlight. I had to try it. I was immediately hooked and determined! After being told by a doctor that due to some congenital issues - retroverted hip and bilateral twisted tibias - I should find a different sport. Sorry what? That was all I needed to commit to surfing. I fashioned what we called the “Sam Step” which was the raised part of a traction pad angled to allow me to place my foot sideways and push off to pop up. With the help of two very talented local pro surfing twins – Casey & Jessica Kwiecinski, I developed a pop up that worked for me and eventually I moved on from the Sam step. Over the years, thanks to shaper Brian Wynn, I have boards with foam placement that accommodates my limitations.” - Samantha Keown @surfingirish 📸 @lglasserphotography #theoceanisfemale

“The best wave I ever caught was in March 2014.

“The best wave I ever caught was in March 2014. Kona winds battered relentlessly over the island that day. It was a choppy mess and not many surfers were out. It felt like it took twenty minutes of straight paddling to move forward about a foot and if you stopped to rest, you were pretty much back where you started. I tried my hardest to get to a decent spot and attempted to get on any wave along the way so I could get back to shore and call it a day. It must have taken me an hour, maybe more - finally I got there. I was hesitant to sit on my board knowing I’d get pushed back to where I didn’t want to be. I sat up reluctantly and haven’t even fully turned when I spotted this angry gray wall of a wave. 😱 I quickly willed my board around and got on my belly because I knew it would crush me to bits if it got me on my side. 🥴 I felt a push and thought maybe I’ll pop up to see if I could catch it...

Hooly cow did I ever! And I rode it all the way to shore. I was told I couldn’t be seen from behind. I don’t know, maybe it was overhead? Maybe not. But it sure felt like an accomplishment. Never surfed a wave that big after that. I was back to my usual little peelers and whitewash. But you know what? Those little ones are just as exhilarating! Never woulda pegged myself for a surfer. I almost drowned when I was 6 so I never learned to swim.

Don’t let fear stop you from doing something or you might miss out on finding out what it is you love doing best. 🤙🏼” - Delta Dawn Lam @stokedddd #theoceanisfemale

“I started surfing after someone said I couldn’t do it. So, I did it! A Hawaiian waterman taught me that surfing says a lot about how you think. Your surf style reflects what’s on your mind like if you’re afraid to stand up, you just have to let go and conquer that fear. I love surfing because the ocean has a new lesson for me each day!!” - Mandy @legally.hi 📸 @meganatsea #theoceanisfemale

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