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theoceanisfemale

“I moved to Michigan with my family two years ag

“I moved to Michigan with my family two years ago in my mid-thirties, and I was surprised to find there is surfing on the Great Lakes. While surfing was definitely on my bucket list, I started paddle boarding on Lake Macatawa, which connects to Lake Michigan, for mental wellbeing. My family went through a very traumatic season the past several years, and I sought out therapy (brainspotting) and also read the books The Body Keeps the Score and Blue Mind. I decided to try combining therapy types: traditional and nature, particularly being in the water. It brought a source of healing to me that I hadn't experienced before. My friend Nikki began joining me out on the water and we paddled into winter with a completely different mental wellbeing than we'd had before. We added in shoreline hikes and cross country skiing when we couldn't take numb hands and feet anymore. Because being on the water had been so life changing for me, I began thinking about the possibility of starting a nonprofit mental wellness water community for others who experienced PTSD, anxiety, and depression. My grandfather was a veteran who loved the ocean, and I think a healing community could have been life changing for him. I connected with other paddlers, surfers, and community members who felt the same about supporting our veterans and first responders, and we started Third Coast Rising in April 2021. I started surfing over the summer to join our surfers out on the water, so it's still very new. I see each time I'm in the water, whether "successful" or not, as an opportunity to learn more about the water, connect with nature, and learn a lot about myself. I've found surfing to be a humbling sport, but a mentally and physically rewarding one, even at the beginning stages. Nikki and I have had amazing support as we've been learning.” - Shelley Ritter @shelleyritter_ #theoceanisfemale

“I was thinking between the first time I landed

“I was thinking between the first time I landed an improper hang five (improper because I didn’t get back to the middle of my board successfully) BUT I think it would have to be the first time I had learned to do a bottom turn on a wave that was bigger than me (I’m five foot six) with a busted front foot.

My recent 29th birthday. I celebrated one year of longboarding and I realized how far I’ve come from and the impact surfing has had in my life.

I had one of the best sessions this year. I learned to celebrate each milestone of ‘almosts’... the almost hang five, the almost cutback, the almost backward cross step.

These “almosts” I wouldn't use to celebrate these milestones of progress thinking that it's only the actual hang five with toes curled on the nose that should be celebrated. I'm pretty sure all the pros out there started with 'almosts’ and these ‘almosts’, with constant practice will get me to the “already” hanging five, “already” hanging ten, and every other maneuver that I will accomplish one day. And I am so certain it’s only a matter of when, and not if. :)” - Ferina Santos @ferinasantos #theoceanisfemale

“This happened in Teniya in Okinawa Japan- It wa

“This happened in Teniya in Okinawa Japan- It was way bigger and more powerful than I thought, which happens often there. I thought I was good in the channel watching and gathering myself. A huge cleanup set came through and boards and people went flying. I tried desperately to make it over, and it sent me hurling backwards through the washing machine (if that makes sense lol). It dragged me way inside and I was under the whole time. After, everyone was asking everyone else if they were ok, and I was way inside. A bunch of people thought I caught the wave. I had to say no, it definitely caught me haha!!” - Leah Teglovic @leahyayleah #theoceanisfemale

“When my father died, I ran to Los Angeles in th

“When my father died, I ran to Los Angeles in the thick of grief and let the city swallow me whole. Some days I was so consumed by my mental health I couldn't get off the sand and into the water.

Years later, I would find my feet on a board with a pal at Venice Beach. I would fall in love with the sunsets, the characters, the trash, everything. We became confident, our circle grew, ending sessions with old punk songs, burgers, and beers at a bungalow on the east side of LA.

When I finally headed back home to New York, I found @bennys.club over in Far Rockaway. It’s a crew for Queer/POC surfers seeking community. When people get their wave we clap, when people want to quit, we encourage. It is a community built around overcoming. Which I realize now is all I was seeking in the first place, the support, and the patience to overcome.” - Dom Carrieri @dom.oh.neek #theoceanisfemale

“My favorite surf moment was a morning surf with

“My favorite surf moment was a morning surf with my mum. No other surfers in the water. There was a beautiful rainbow. It started to rain hard but the water was so calm, so we used our boards as umbrella's and just chatted. It was so beautiful.” - Jessica Jungjai @_jessica_jade_clark_ #theoceanisfemale

Pt. 2 “Almost every woman I know no matter how w

Pt. 2 “Almost every woman I know no matter how well she surfs has been dropped in on by men. I have had my boards dinged multiple times over the last few years by guys who were in the wrong place and didn't understand etiquette. They came out yelling and the first thing I did was apologize even when I was not at fault. Speaking with other women, I have had feedback that for many of us, apologizing is a first response to conflict. My question is why? I teach lessons and so many of the women say they just want to stay out of people's way. But we have to learn to take our space in and out of the water. By showing up with respect and kindness, but clear boundaries of the space that is ours, we can start to make a difference. Having sisters and male allies helps minimize the patriarchal bro culture that can be nauseating at times.

Working women’s surf retreats and online classes has allowed me to facilitate the conversation around "how do we, as women, WANT to show up in the water?" The true joy is- we get to show up however we want to show up, on any given day. Not showing up to prove anything, not showing up for sex appeal, but showing up to surf because we love the ocean. This question/answer gives us permission to be who we are and break free from the out-dated mold of traditional surf culture.” - Kate Fox @foxyalchemist #theoceanisfemale 📸 @poseidonimagery

Pt. 1 “I spent part of every summer on the Jerse

Pt. 1 “I spent part of every summer on the Jersey shore growing up and fell in love with the ocean there. Images in a local surf shop of guys deep in the tube of turquoise waves birthed a desire in me so long ago I can't even tell when it started. As a competitive swimmer I spent a lot of time in water but I only got a few chances to surf until I moved to Hawaii in my early 20s.

I landed on Maui where some friends took me out on a small longboard day, I was going down the line after my first few waves.

I was lucky enough to stay with a local couple for a short while who had just bought land on sacred Kahuna ground where the aina spirits were legit. One night we watched the movie "Step into Liquid" and when it was over I went out onto the sacred land to pray. I humbly asked the spirits for permission and guidance to walk the land and learn to ride the waves; I promised to tread lightly and treat the aina and kai with respect and pono. The response was powerful and intense. I was guided to leave Maui for the Big Island.

There I spent a few weeks learning to surf at a left point break in Kona. An uncle took me under his wing and gifted me my first board.
That's kind of how it all began. My story takes some twists and turns as all stories do but here I am, completely in love with the ocean and blessed to ride her waves.” - Kate Fox @foxyalchemist #theoceanisfemale 📸 @poseidonimagery

“Surfing, or for me more precisely the ocean, is

“Surfing, or for me more precisely the ocean, is one of the biggest factors that constantly shape my life. I had the most beautiful, calmest, wildest, fearful and best moments of my life in the ocean. The ocean is life for me.

I think all the people who spend their days in the ocean are the people who also see the strong damaging impact of humanity on our blue planet. We see how much plastic is floating around us and how much animals are suffering. We see how corals are dying and how our favorite element is changing. For me, protecting the oceans and its animals is one of the most important things in my life. I will always give my voice to those who don’t have one. We need to treat the only planet we have much better than we do today and everyone can do something about it.” - Stephanie @steph_around 📸 @enriquerodriguez_1 #theoceanisfemale

“Be present. I truly hate how overused, washed-o

“Be present. I truly hate how overused, washed-out this expression is, but when during surf I'm actually thinking about surf, reading the ocean, focusing on my breathing and form, I catch many more waves. If during my surf session I think about work, family, relationships and anything non-surf related, I tend to miss good waves. Who knows, maybe soon enough, I'll be able to catch waves and solve jigsaws in my head – but for now, if I surf, I surf :)” - Dayana @dayyashh 📸 @schumacherpabloo7 #theoceanisfemale

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