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theoceanisfemale

“I was 28 when my surfing journey began. Some da

“I was 28 when my surfing journey began. Some days, I felt like I took two steps forward and then two steps back the next. I was surprised at how judgemental I was of myself. Every time I carried my massive foamie into the sea I imagined lots of eyes, judging me for having such a big board. Every time I would wipe out I would be looking around to see who had noticed. Eventually, I realised I wasn’t alone in feeling this way. As women, we all have our own insecurities. But the best thing about the ocean; she doesn’t judge. She doesn’t care how you look or how good you are. In the water, she treats us the same. We are all equal. Now, in my 30’s, I am the happiest I’ve ever been in the water. I finally feel free! My surfing journey has been just as emotional as it was physical and I’m grateful for every moment: the good and the bad. Through these moments, I’ve finally learned to love myself. Big board and all.” - Jo Young @jo_by_the_coast

“Growing up in Hawai’i the ocean was our home,

“Growing up in Hawai’i the ocean was our home, our safe space, our teacher, and our healer. My dad taught me how to surf at a very young age, he put me on a board at 6 months old! Now I remember every day if I didn’t get in the ocean, my body would physically feel bad. When the chaos in this world gets too loud, surfing in the beautiful pacific is where I go. It’s the one place my mind doesn’t overthink, or stress out. Instead I’m learning from those bad wipeouts, to stay calm in the midst of something scary. To breathe deep, and exhale out all that worry. The ocean truly is my medication, and the one place I feel 100% myself.” - Summer Brown @summurrr #theoceanisfemale

“I’ve always been a beach and skater girl. Fro

“I’ve always been a beach and skater girl. From a young age I was always in the water boogie boarding or just swimming around. I originally started skim boarding and skateboarding at the age of 12. Shortly after I had my first surf lesson when I was 16 and have been hooked ever since. My dad and I have always had a passion for the ocean and we shaped both of my boards together.

My goal is to travel to different spots and provide those who are disabled with adaptive surf boards/ surf equipment. I am a soon to be Occupational Therapist and want to specialize in adaptive equipment/assistive technology!.” - Marissa @marissmanera @saltanndsunshop #theoceanisfemale

“O mar para mim é um lugar de escape, um lugar

“O mar para mim é um lugar de escape, um lugar onde não importa meu status social, meu sexo, nem mesmo meu nome. No mar me sinto tão pequena diante do universo, e ao mesmo tempo me sinto tão privilegiada e sortuda de vivenciar cada momento.
Fico olhando as ondas vindos, e pensando em quantos quilômetros elas não viajaram até chegarem em mim, e o quão valiosa e única cada onda é.
O Mar é um mundo onde o ser humano não pode controlar, precisa se adaptar ao que ele quer.” - Victoria Mazzia @vickymazzia 📸 @alemao.pic #theoceanisfemale

“Ever since being a little girl, I grew up spend

“Ever since being a little girl, I grew up spending my summers on the Big Island of Hawaii because that's where my mom is from and I always had this dream of being 'that surfer girl' even though I was so far from it being a city girl living predominantly in Hong Kong. I first tried surfing on my own in Costa Rica when I was 18, but it was really an ex-partner who finally brought this little girl's dream to life; with him, I was introduced to cold water surfing in Cornwall (something to get used to when you're a tropical baby!), and we went on a wonderful trip to Indonesia, which is where I first became comfortable on a board and in larger waves.” - Gabby Lang @gabslang #theoceanisfemale

“毎日の生活に毎週一回でも海に入ることによって、リフレッシュして陸での生活ができている。” - Nao @na0_surf07 #theoceanisfemale

Pt. 2 “My most memorable surf moment would have

Pt. 2 “My most memorable surf moment would have to be when I stood up for the first time post-surgery. I didn’t actually know if I could still surf or not, so to stand up and catch a wave was the most incredible, reassuring moment I’ve experienced surfing! I’ve had to make some weird changes, such as putting my leg rope on my left leg, despite myself being a natural foot, so that if I wipe out, my board doesn’t dislocate my bad hip 🤣

After my hip replacement, I wasn’t exercising or really doing anything to motivate myself and so I was in a terrible state of mind. Once I started surfing again, the endorphins kicked in and my mood out of the water drastically changed for the better! For me, surfing is exercise and can be a bloody tough workout, but it doesn’t feel like it because it also brings me so much joy.” - Kendall Williams @kenndallrose 📸 @hilda_bezuidenhout #theoceanisfemale

Pt. 1 “In 2019, at age 19, I underwent a total h

Pt. 1 “In 2019, at age 19, I underwent a total hip replacement due to pre-existing deteriorating hip dysplasia. It wasn’t until I was sitting at the beach watching my partner surf when I realised that all I wanted to do was to get back out there and give it another go! I didn’t want my disability to stop me from doing what I love, and so here we are now.” - Kendall Williams @kenndallrose 📸 @hilda_bezuidenhout #theoceanisfemale

“Surfing has had such a positive impact on my li

“Surfing has had such a positive impact on my life. Some days you'll be having the absolute worse day it just seems like everything is going wrong but then you step into the water and the day takes a 180. Surfing can really change the mood on the entire day. I always walk out of the water with a better attitude than when I went in.

My dad originally introduced my brother and I to surfing. He pushed us everyday to go do what we love. A few years ago my family lost him to cancer. Every time we step out into the water it is for him 🤍🤍.” - Meghan Coleson @meghan_coleson #theoceanisfemale

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