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theoceanisfemale

“When I was a teenager, I went through some real

“When I was a teenager, I went through some really hard times. Family, relationships, identity problems – the list goes on. It was during these tough, formative years, that I found the ocean. I started going to the beach every morning, and realised how free I felt. All my problems disappeared, the moment I touched the water. To crank things up a bit, I began scuba-diving when I left school and instantly fell in love with the peacefulness beyond the surface. I became a Divemaster in 2011 and spent many years diving to 40+ meter depths, all around the world.

I body-surfed for years before picking up a board. I bought my very first board in 2016 and began teaching myself how to surf. I often paddled out without fins. I would forget to attach my leash. I even thought I was a goofy-footer for a couple of years.

As a girl, I often felt uncomfortable paddling out by myself and wiping out in-front of everyone. But I overcame those fears and insecurities and met people along the way who guided me to where I am now. I met my beautiful partner, Nath, while surfing my local break in Perth. Together, we have been on some incredible salty adventures. The ocean has been my healer and my passion.” - Michelle Travaglione 📸 @jordy_maxwell #theoceanisfemale

“El surf siempre estuvo presente en mi vida, ya

“El surf siempre estuvo presente en mi vida, ya que mi papá lo practica y desde que soy muy pequeña iba a la playa a acompañarlo y veía muchos surfistas, pero nunca vi a una mujer (en esos tiempos), por lo que veía el surf como un deporte poco cercano a mi como niña. El año pasado, con una amiga nos motivamos juntas para entrar al agua y tomar confianza. Yo ya tenía algunas nociones de surfear y sólo me faltaba confianza. Desde Julio- Agosto de 2019 comencé a surfear con mucha perseverancia, motivación y nunca más lo dejaré.” - Florencia O’Brien @floobriensurf 📸 @mds_ #theoceanisfemale @oceanik.cl

“I have two surfing philosophies: 1. If you can

“I have two surfing philosophies: 1. If you can surf New Jersey waves, you can surf anywhere. and, 2. You have to surf the crappy days to surf the good days. But mostly --- have fun and if you love 2-3' waves and hate overhead waves, that's okay. Everyone has their own style!” - Meredith @meredithmegan #theoceanisfemale

“Little did I know that through the years of sur

“Little did I know that through the years of surfing, I was being taught the power of alert stillness. I first discovered this term from Eckhart Tolle's teachings but I didn't fully understand what it meant until I started surfing in my home break. I moved to an island with waves bigger and stronger than I'm used to. So, If I wanted to play and surf without getting seriously injured, I had to study the movement of the ocean. Besides being physically fit, I had to be mentally prepared.
I had to focus on each incoming wave-- where and when it was going to break. I had to be fully present. This helped me understand where to position myself, where to wait and where to take off because the wipe outs were harsh and getting caught inside was exhausting. I also had to learn how to consciously calm my nerves and soften my muscles. Panicking never helped haha. I had to be self-aware. This practice led to clarity of mind and readiness. As the years went by, I learned to balance the state of being focused and the state of being relaxed-- alert stillness. The more conscious I was of balancing these two states, the more enjoyable and efficient surfing got, even when applied to daily activities like conversations, reading, cooking, climbing and driving. Surf taught me to be mindful and to live in sync with my inner self, with others and with nature.” - Luisa Jimenez @worldofpatterns 📸 @susanlarsson #theoceanisfemale

“I am a beginner surfer but spent a lot of my ch

“I am a beginner surfer but spent a lot of my childhood body boarding with my Dad and siblings. At every sunny opportunity he would take us to the best beaches Devon and Cornwall had to offer, he was an expert at finding beauty spots and got a real buzz from being surrounded in nature. I now feel that same buzz, but most of all when surfing.

One negative trait I gained from my Dad is being a worrier! Always thinking about the ‘what ifs’. Every time we would go to the beach we would get the talk about the dangers of the sea... riptides, rocks or going too far out of our depths. He did right to give us this knowledge but I believe this awareness rooted itself into me as fear and could be why I didn't try surfing until much later in life. Surfing felt like that next step into something more risky rather than thinking about all of the fun I could have.

I am happy to say that now in my 30s I am knocking down those worry barriers and surfing with a big ol' smile. I've faced a riptide and the odd anxiety attack in deep water over the last year, but I get myself back in again and again because the stoke on those waves is more powerful than any anxious thought thats ever crossed my mind.” - Steph Colebrook-Clark @stephjayneclark #theoceanisfemale

Pt. 2 “I was at this beach that had a very nasty

Pt. 2 “I was at this beach that had a very nasty shore break. To come out, you had to wait and really time your way out. I was waiting already for 10 minutes when I thought it was the perfect time to get out. When I thought I made it, a huge wave broke on top of me, sending me like 20 meters away from the shore, just rolling in the sand alongside my board. When the water decided to stop pushing me, I quickly stood up, to realize that everyone from the beach club (yes, this wave was in front of a very nice beach club) was looking at me and decided to clap for my amazing and embarrassing performance. I just smiled and waved.” - Cristina Mendez @crismndz @islanderspf #theoceanisfemale

Pt. 1 ““Surfing at sunset, with your crew is o

Pt. 1 ““Surfing at sunset, with your crew is one of the best feelings ever! Getting my first barrel is also one, the sound, the color and everything around it just feels from another world. But my most memorable moment was the first wave I took after having a cast in my leg for 8 months plus 6 months of rehabilitation. I still can remember, when I got to the line up, paddle for the first wave and stood up, I cried, I really cried out of happiness!” - Cristina Mendez @crismndz @islanderspf #theoceanisfemale

“I surfed until I was 38 weeks pregnant, and it

“I surfed until I was 38 weeks pregnant, and it was a really good time for me in my surfing evolution. When you're pregnant, you really can't fall. So my surfing became more controlled, careful and intelligent. I stopped taking crazy risks, spent more time reading the waves and ultimately understanding the ocean. It really made me a much better surfer, because instead of just throwing myself into intense situations and getting scared, I was taking the time to learn and understand what was going on around me. I took more waves and better waves, and way fewer wipeouts.” - Marisa Megan @_marisamegan @aljezurfemmes @casazuza 📸 @_tombaker_ #theoceanisfemale

Pt. 2 “Surfing has really made me a more gratefu

Pt. 2 “Surfing has really made me a more grateful person both in the water and out of the water. Surfing is one of the most challenging sports and there are plenty of days I have fallen more times than I have stood up. Yet, no matter how frustrated I get, I always try to leave the water, thankful. Never in my wildest dreams could I have imagined, my 29 year old self, would be surfing at sunset in Venice Beach, a couple nights a week. I am still amazed every early morning session that a group of dolphins or seals happen to swim by. Whether I surfed well or had an off day, these are still moments I will remember forever. On land, I try to also use this principle of gratitude. No matter how tough the work day is, I end the day thankful for at least one thing, even if it’s something as minute as the cup of coffee I had.” - Amanda Smith @ayysmitts #theoceanisfemale

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