Surf Sister Mary

Los Angeles, California

Years Surfing: 15

Fave Board:  It’s a tie between my 9’3″ Paul Gross hull and my 9’3″ DANC Surfboards single fin.

Instagram: @onefinoneheart

What is your philosophy of surfing? It’s pretty basic. The one abiding rule for me is that the ocean doesn’t care. It doesn’t care about race or whether you’re rich or poor, male or female, gay or straight. It treats us all the same and is to be respected by all who dare to enjoy its magic. The ocean is the great equalizer in many ways.

What do you love/hate about surf culture as it pertains to women surfers? There is always the insinuation that female surfers are young, white, skinny and hot. Surf culture recognizes that men come in all shapes and sizes, but predictably refuses to acknowledge that fact about female surfers. Then again, surf culture mirrors much of the same biases we find in the culture at large.

Who are your surf heroes and why? There are quite a few, but I’ve always been drawn to the women who were the trailblazers: Marge Calhoun, Eve Fletcher, Rell Sunn, Cher Pendarvis and women whose identities we don’t even know. They surfed, and kicked ass, at a time when the boards were massive, leashes were nonexistent and women were hardly seen in the water.